What is a Gansey exactly? Ganseys are hardwearing sweaters and the work uniform of Fishermen of the British Isles circa 1850-1930, mass produced by contract hand knitters (mainly female) working to supplement their household income. They do not originate from the Island of Guernsey (and yes Mary's book does contain the word). As Gordon Reid from Gansey Nation says, this is a red herring. Ganseys from the 19th century come from British coastal towns and stand alone . Do give Gordon's website a visit. He is based in Caithness and busts lots of Gansey Myths as well as providing fascinating information about Ganseys from that area.
Ganseys are knit in one colour, usually Dark Blue but sometimes brown, grey, cream or black depending on which part of the British Isles you came from. The yarn is worsted spun with a high twist from sheep who like it rough ie: their fleece is made to withstand the weather. The wool does not contain lanolin, contrary to popular belief. It is knit on tiny 2.25- 2.75 mm needles and this creates an extremely dense fabric which was also known as 'sea iron'. They aren't totally waterproof but it takes a lot of soaking to penetrate the skin and they are impervious to wind. I love my own oversized Gansey and it is perfect for Winter walks when the elements are raging.
Where does the name originate from? One thing is for sure, it' not from Guernsey. Educated guesses say the name could derive from the Gaelic word geansai which means sweater or jersey. Local dialect could have shifted the word to Gansey and indeed today, Scottish folk use the word Gansey a collective term for any sweater. Alternatively, it could come from the Dutch word, genser which also means sweater or pullover. This nation ruled the herring fishing before we took the major share, so this could be an option. And then we have the Old Norse word, gansey which means Tunic or the Norse word garn (Old English gearn) which means yarn. So we don't know for sure but in any case, Cornwall is the only place where they were known as Knitfrocks.
Gansey Construction Ganseys were all constructed in the same way, regardless of which part of the British Isles they were knit (making the root origin even more interesting). They were knit in one piece, in the round from the bottom welt upwards. Made to be close fitting, unlike today, because loose clothing are a health and safety nightmare when you are working at sea with ropes and chains. To give the wearer more ease of movement, triangular gussets were included underneath each arm. Purl stitches were added to the front and chest to form motifs and patterns. These motifs mirrored the fishermen's lives. They reflected the elements ie: sand, waves and fish bones as well as the working environment ie: ropes, nets and flags. If they were married, paired zig-zag lines known as 'marriage lines' could be included and symbols of protection kept them safe such as The Tree of Life, stars and knots. The tight twist of the yarn makes these purl stiches pop and stand out against the stocking stitch background and are very attractive. In Cornwall, the lower part of the gansey was always plain (it was tucked into oilskin trousers to the waist) and the patterning began on the chest. Textured stitches add loft and therefore trap more air and warmth so there was method to the technique that made it purposeful too. After the first part of the gusset was knit, the sweater was split into front and back sections and knit back and forth until the shoulders completed. Both front and back are identical. In Cornwall, shoulder construction is simple. Rig and Fur ( combination of purl and plain rows to make furrows) plus a strong three needle bind off are common. In other parts of the British Isles, saddle shoulders and fancy shoulder straps are common. A good source of further reading is from Deb Gilanders of Propagansey. She has many examples of interesting familial patterns local to Whitby and the surrounding areas. Stitches were picked up around the neck and the collar knitted in rib. Neck gussets were sometimes added but not always and although Cornwall seems to have stuck with ribbing, other areas of the British Isles favoured buttoned necks, roll necks and if you look to Dutch Ganseys or Visserstruien, they favoured a draw string with pom poms attached. Stitches were picked up around the armhole and the sleeves knitted downward to the cuff. Again, these sleeves were close fitting for safety and often finished short above the wrist. The second half of the gusset diamond is completed as the top part of the sleeve is worked. Patterned straps were often added to this area of the sleeve too, perhaps for added warmth or purely for decoration. Thus we have a hard working garment, totally reversible so when one side showed wear, it could be turned around for extra life and with cuffs and neck that could be unravelled and reknit when frayed and worn. Indeed it is the ultimate piece of slow fashion that I have found to be almost bomb proof.
Initials were often added above the welt, the gusset or to the sleeve. Motifs were usually repeated and favoured by particular families and passed down through the generations. Often men would have a Gansey for work and one for best. Working Ganseys were plainer and largely ribbed on the chest as in the photo of the smiling lad above. Best Ganseys were for Chapel and High Days. Mother would fill the chest piece with her fanciest cables and patterns as a point of pride. In Cornwall, even the fanciest Ganseys still favour the plain lower half whilst those further up the South East Coast have patterns starting just above the welt and covering every inch of the jersey. On the small island of Eriskay, they added lace patterns and are the fanciest of the Gansey family whilst in Appledore, North Devon, the Gansey was totally plain with only a saddle shoulder of moss stitch to add interest. Only two stitches in knitting but a plethora of fascinating contrasts emerge as a result.